Room 02 · Museum of Seattle
The Duwamish River
Seattle straightened the Duwamish, removed one of its tributaries, and built an industrial waterway in its place. The old river—and the cost of remaking it—remain visible.
A way into this room
The straightening was financed by bonds. Lowering Lake Washington was a federal project. Industry was not an unintended visitor; attracting it was the purpose of the new waterway.
Each decision had its own rationale. Together they concentrated contamination, flood risk, and lost habitat in the same five miles of valley. Yet the river remains legible—in Georgetown's curving streets, beneath the fill, and in the flood risk carried by South Park parcels.
The people the river is named for
The name runs the other way round from the one most people assume.
People of the Inside
The river is not named after a tribe. The tribe is named after where it lived. Duwamish is an anglicisation of dxʷdəwʔabš — rendered in plainer type as Dkhw'Duw'Absh — meaning "People of the Inside": inside the bay, up the sheltered water, away from the open Sound.
The Tribe's own account distinguishes the dxʷdəwʔabš, around Elliott Bay and the river, from the xacuabš, "People of the Large Lake," around Lake Washington. Before 1916 those waters belonged to one drainage joined by the Black River—a hydrology the twentieth century dismantled.
Lushootseed spellings vary between sources. We retain the form used by each cited source rather than making the words look more certain than our research allows.
Sources
- Tribal sourceDuwamish Tribe — Culture Today
- SecondaryBurke Museum — Waterlines Project Map
Checked July 28, 2026 — with a caveat
The meaning and the two-group division are the Tribe's own framing and are widely repeated. The exact orthography differs between the Tribe's pages, the Burke, and this repo's own place-name data; treat the spelling as provisional, as in Room 01.
Two thousand years of the same address
At the mouth of the river the Port of Seattle now runs two small parks on old village ground. One is named həʔapus — a name spoken for the Port by Warren King George, historian of the Muckleshoot Indian Tribe — for a small stream draining across a flat on the river's west side. It sits on the site of a village called yile'qwud, named for a Yakama-style basket hat, where families lived communally in cedar plank longhouses.
National Register documentation dates Coast Salish settlement here as early as 1999 BC—an occupation record measured in millennia rather than the 175 years of Seattle's customary founding story.
Sources
- SecondaryPort of Seattle — həʔapus Village Park and Shoreline Habitat— Name given by Warren King George, Muckleshoot Indian Tribe; village yile'qwud; National Register documentation dating settlement "as early as 1999 BC"
- Tribal sourceDuwamish Tribe — official site
Checked July 28, 2026 — with a caveat
The Port's page is the source for the date and the names, and the Port developed them in consultation with tribal historians. The underlying National Register nomination has not been retrieved and read.
Herring's House
t̓uʔəlaltxʷ — "Herring's House," the place where herring spawn — stood near the mouth of the river. In March 1893 eight dwellings were burned and their residents displaced. The Port of Seattle, which now maintains a park on the site, states it plainly: the village "was burnt down in 1893 by settlers looking to advance their land holdings during expansion into West Seattle."
The burning entered the newspaper record when displaced residents arrived at Ballast Island, one of the few places Native people were permitted to camp in the city. A man the paper called West Seattle Charlie identified James Watson of the West Seattle Land and Improvement Company as the arsonist; the original paper has not yet been checked.
Five years later, dock and warehouse expansion ended Native residence on Ballast Island too. The formal exclusion imposed by Seattle's 1865 ordinance continued through fire, land acquisition, and industrial expansion.
See the Herring's House site on the map“Watson mamook fire copa nika house”
Sources
- SecondaryPort of Seattle — t̓uʔəlaltxʷ Village Park and Shoreline Habitat— "t̓uʔəlaltxʷ village was burnt down in 1893 by settlers looking to advance their land holdings during expansion into West Seattle"
- SecondaryJohn Brockhaus, "When Settlers Burned Herring's House, an Ancient Duwamish Settlement," Post Alley, 2 June 2024— Eight dwellings; James Watson of the West Seattle Land and Improvement Company; West Seattle Charlie's identification; retelling the Seattle Press-Times of 7 March 1893
- ReferenceHistoryLink Essay 10979 — Seattle Board of Trustees passes ordinance calling for removal of Indians, February 7, 1865— Herring's House burned 1893
Checked July 28, 2026 — with a caveat
The fire, the year and the motive are confirmed by the Port on its own site. The eight houses, the named arsonist and the quotation come from a 2024 retelling of the Seattle Press-Times of 7 March 1893 — we have read the retelling, not the newspaper. The named individual should not be treated as proven until the original is read.
Twenty million cubic yards
Two projects, seven years apart, that between them removed a river and a river's outlet.
The straightening
The lower Duwamish met Elliott Bay in meanders, and at high water much of the surrounding land was under it. Steamboats could get as far as Kent; ocean-going ships could not get in at all. That was the problem the twentieth century set out to solve.
Eugene Semple proposed the scheme in 1895: a canal to Lake Washington, filled tideflats, and a straightened river. In 1909 Seattle formed the Duwamish Waterway Commission, sold bonds, and began dredging in Georgetown.
Twenty million cubic yards of mud and sand were moved. The bends were filled and the channel deepened; by 1920 the waterway ran fifty feet deep for four and a half miles. Land appeared where water had been, and industry moved south onto it.
City Engineer R. H. Thomson urged the project. His work here and on Seattle's regrades made him one of the people most responsible for the city's physical shape.
Sources
- ReferenceHistoryLink Essay 2986 — Straightening of Duwamish River begins on October 14, 1913— Twenty million cubic yards; Semple 1895; Thomson and the 1909 Duwamish Waterway Commission; dredge Duwamish I; 50 feet deep for 4½ miles by 1920
- ReferenceHistoryLink Essay 2985 — Seattle Neighborhoods: South Park — Thumbnail History— rechannelling from 1913; meanders straightened by 1920
Checked against the cited sources on July 28, 2026.
The day the Black River went
Lake Washington's outlet was the Black River, which ran south from Renton, met the Cedar half a mile down, joined the Green at what is now Tukwila, and became the Duwamish. The Duwamish had a village on it for at least fourteen hundred years.
Building the Lake Washington Ship Canal meant dropping the lake to the level of Lake Union. On 25 August 1916 the cofferdam holding Lake Union out of the Montlake Cut was opened; three days later the gates at the Lake Washington end were opened too. Over three months the lake fell nine feet — below the mouth of its own outlet. The Black River stopped.
Renton had already diverted the Cedar River into the lake in 1912. When the lake fell, the Black-Cedar salmon run arrived to find receding water. Treaty fishing rights remained on paper while the project removed fish, river, and landing from this place.
“That was quite a day for the white people at least. The waters just went down, down, until our landing and canoes stood dry and there was no Black River at all. There were pools, of course, and the struggling fish trapped in them. People came from miles around, laughing and hollering and stuffing fish into gunny sacks.”
Sources
- ReferenceHistoryLink Essay 686 — Lake Washington is lowered 9 feet beginning on August 28, 1916, and the Black River disappears— Montlake cofferdam opened 25 Aug 1916, gates three days later, lake falls 9 feet over three months; Cedar diverted 1912; Duwamish village on the Black River "for at least 1,400 years"; Joseph Moses and Henry Moses quotations
- PrimaryTreaty of Point Elliott, 12 Stat. 927— "taking fish at usual and accustomed grounds and stations" — US Government work, public domain
Checked against the cited sources on July 28, 2026.
The river is still in the street grid
Straightening the river did not delete the old channel. It left it in the plats.
In Georgetown, S Front Street, S Fidalgo Street and S River Street still curve. They are not curved for a view or a hill. They follow a bend of the Duwamish that has not held water for a century, because the lots were laid out along the riverbank and the lot lines outlived the river.
Open the parcel map over Georgetown and the parcels themselves trace the meander. A buildable-envelope calculation on those lots is taking place inside the footprint of a river dredged away in 1913.
Sources
- ReferenceHistoryLink Essay 2986 — Straightening of Duwamish River begins on October 14, 1913— "The old course of the Duwamish can be (in 2001) traced in curved streets of Georgetown such as S Front Street, S Fidalgo Street, and S River Street"
- SecondaryBurke Museum — Duwamish meanders: a river ran through it
Checked July 28, 2026 — with a caveat
The three street names are HistoryLink's, written in 2001 and true on today's map. That the parcel lines derive from riverbank platting is the obvious reading of the geometry and is not, in this pass, sourced to a plat document.
What the waterway carried
The industry was the purpose. The contamination was the consequence, and it took eighty years to name.
Five miles, Superfund
The Environmental Protection Agency added the Lower Duwamish Waterway to the National Priorities List in 2001 — the five northern miles of the river, up to the southern tip of Harbor Island, plus the upland sources feeding it.
The contaminants of concern are PCBs, arsenic, carcinogenic PAHs, dioxins and furans. In 2014 the EPA issued its Record of Decision: active cleanup of roughly 177 acres by dredging, capping and enhanced natural recovery, at an estimated $342 million.
The waterway was completed in 1920 and listed as a national priority for contamination in 2001. Cleanup was still under way when this panel was last checked.
Sources
- PrimaryUS EPA — Lower Duwamish Waterway Superfund Site Profile— NPL listing 2001; five-mile segment; PCBs, arsenic, cPAHs, dioxins and furans; 2014 Record of Decision; ~177 acres; $342 million — US Government work
- PrimaryUS EPA — Record of Decision, Lower Duwamish Waterway Superfund Site (2014)— US Government work — public domain
Checked July 28, 2026 — with a caveat
All figures are from EPA's own site profile. The Record of Decision PDF is cited as the underlying document but was not read line by line in this pass, and cleanup schedules have slipped repeatedly — check EPA before relying on any date beyond 2014.
Who eats the fish
The Washington Department of Health advises against eating resident crab, shellfish and non-salmon fish from the waterway. Salmon are the exception, and only because they pass through quickly.
People fish it anyway, and the EPA knows precisely who: a 2016 study of fishers on the Duwamish found more than twenty ethnic and language groups, many of whom eat and share what they catch. The agency's consumption-advice materials are produced in Khmer, Spanish and Vietnamese among others.
A consumption advisory asks the person reading it to avoid a risk created elsewhere. That choice is hardest for people who rely on the river for affordable food, cultural practice, or both.
It also runs directly into the treaty. Point Elliott reserved the right of taking fish at usual and accustomed grounds. It did not reserve the right to eat them.
Sources
- PrimaryUS EPA — Lower Duwamish Waterway Superfund Site Profile— Washington DOH advisory on resident crab, shellfish and non-salmon fish; 2016 Fishers Study — "more than 20 ethnic/language groups"; multilingual Healthy Seafood Consumption outreach
- SecondaryDuwamish River Community Coalition
Checked against the cited sources on July 28, 2026.
The valley now
What a century of decisions costs, measured on the people still living at the bottom of it.
Eight years
In 2013 Just Health Action and the Duwamish River Cleanup Coalition published a Cumulative Health Impacts Analysis of the valley: fifteen indicators across ten Seattle zip codes, scored together rather than one pollutant at a time.
The analysis estimated life expectancy in South Park and Georgetown at 73.3 years—eight years below the Seattle and King County average at the time, and thirteen years below Laurelhurst.
The figures date to 2013. They describe how far apart health outcomes could be within one city after a century of decisions about the valley.
Open the parcel map over South Park“life expectancy of 73.3 years, which is 8 years shorter than the Seattle and King County average and 13 years shorter than for residents of the neighborhood of Laurelhurst”
Sources
- SecondaryDuwamish River Community Coalition — Cumulative Health Impacts Analysis (2013)— Fifteen indicators across ten zip codes; life expectancy 73.3 years
- SecondaryCity of Seattle — Duwamish Valley Action Plan
Checked July 28, 2026 — with a caveat
The figure is quoted from DRCC's own summary of the 2013 analysis; the full CHIA report was not retrieved. It is a 2013 measurement still being repeated in 2026 — treat it as the date it carries, not as current.
Where the trees are not
Seattle's tree canopy covered 28.1 percent of the city in 2021, down from 28.6 percent in 2016—a loss of 255 acres in five years.
The citywide average conceals a widening divide. The City's assessment found 31 percent less canopy in neighborhoods shaped by racial and economic injustice in 2021, compared with 27 percent less in 2016. The Duwamish Valley is among those places.
The tree-canopy layer is therefore more than a map of where trees grow. It also records where shade, maintenance, and long-term investment accumulated.
Sources
- SecondaryCity of Seattle — 2021 Tree Canopy Assessment released (Office of Sustainability & Environment, March 2023)— "Seattle's 2021 tree canopy cover is 28.1%, down from 28.6% in 2016"; 255 acres lost; "These neighborhoods had 31% less canopy in 2021, an increase in disparity from 2016 (when they had 27% less)"
- PrimaryCity of Seattle — 2016 Tree Canopy Assessment (full report, PDF)
Checked July 28, 2026 — with a caveat
Citywide and disparity figures are quoted verbatim from the City's own announcement of the 2021 assessment. A South-Park-specific canopy percentage is widely quoted at around 12 percent; we could not confirm it in a City document in this pass and have deliberately left it out.
Fourteen acres back
From 1937 to 1993 the site at the end of Dallas Avenue South held the Duwamish Manufacturing Company and then Malarkey Asphalt. It became Terminal 117, and then it became one of the most PCB-contaminated pieces of ground on the river.
Beginning in 2007, South Park residents and the Duwamish River Cleanup Coalition argued that the site should return to the neighborhood. After shoreline and neighborhood cleanup, the park opened in 2022 with fourteen acres of habitat and roughly 2,500 feet of public shoreline, including refuge for juvenile Chinook.
Fourteen acres cannot balance five miles of Superfund waterway or twenty million cubic yards of moved ground. It is nevertheless a material return of shoreline and habitat—and something South Park residents asked for and helped shape.
Sources
- SecondaryPort of Seattle — Duwamish River People's Park and Shoreline Habitat— Duwamish Manufacturing and Malarkey Asphalt 1937–1993; PCBs; 14 acres and 2,500 linear feet of shoreline; community advocacy from 2007; Port shoreline cleanup complete 2015, City neighborhood cleanup 2016; park completed 2022
- SecondaryDuwamish River Community Coalition
Checked July 28, 2026 — with a caveat
Sourced to the Port of Seattle, which built the park and is therefore an interested party describing its own project. The opening celebration is separately reported as 16 July 2022; we cite the year only, since the Port's own page gives no day.
How we know this—and what remains uncertain
This room was written by non-Native authors and has not been reviewed by the Duwamish Tribe. Lushootseed spellings follow the cited sources, including Port of Seattle material informed by a Muckleshoot tribal historian, and remain pending specialist review.
The room currently lacks images. Relevant federal photographs from 1973 are public domain but have not yet been retrieved and checked. Corrections and better sources are welcome.